Takkoku no Iwaya and Motsu-ji　達谷窟、毛越寺

Oct. 23rd.  2025

A cold night at michi no eki Genbikei, which provided a magnificent display of stars. Such an array I had not experienced for, perhaps, years.

Genbikei Gorge　　厳美渓

From the michi no eki Genbikei, we walk for 10 minutes or so to Genbikei Gorge. This gorge is famous and on the tourist itinerary. Mainly because of a novel dango shop that dispenses its wares by way of a rope pulley system. The dango, soft rice balls, are delivered in a basket across the gorge. A gimmick I can do without, but I’m a miserable old sod.

The gorge itself is rocky and steep-sided. It is not very long or deep or, to tell the truth, that interesting, but it is famous. Dango power.

Takkoku no Iwaya

Our next stop is Takkoku no Iwaya. This temple looks suspiciously like a shrine.

Before the Meiji era, temples and shrines happily co-existed. Perhaps this is a pre-Meiji relic. The temple is of some interest as it is built into the overhanging rockface.

＊Takkoku no Iwaya ; 500 yen / adult

Motsu-ji, temple and garden

From Takkoku no Iwaya, we move on to Motsuji Temple, a famous World Heritage site at Hiraizumi. It is important historically due to its significance in the introduction of Buddhism to Japan.

For the casual visitor, it is big. It is one of those temples heavy on gravel and open space. I think this is due to the Chinese origins of Japanese Buddhism. Then there is the garden, a park really, around a large pond. It is, apparently, an excellent example of the type of garden symbolising Pure Land Buddhism. To my mind, there are far more beautiful and interesting gardens to be found. Here again the importance stems from history.

Pleasant enough to wander through and stretch the legs. It does however have one of those artificial streams to float your haiku down. An event is held here in spring to reenact this Heian pastime.

＊Motsu-ji ; 700 yen /adult

Michi no eki Nishikawa

Then, a long drive to our michi no eki at Nishikawa. This is a good place for an overnight stay and perhaps our 3rd. time here. The facilities are good though limited for such a popular spot. There are at least 15 overnight visitors. The main attraction is the onsen. Nothing fancy but very good value at 350 yen. It is very busy tonight as locals are free.

＊Mizusawa onsen-kan ; 350 yen / adult